Alicante revisited
A couple of weeks later I had an e-mail from Patricia Carbonell, who is in the bodega's export department, asking me if I'd accept some samples, presumably as a result of their non-appearance in the previous post - I offer a consultancy service to wineries aiming at the UK market. They duly arrived and we tasted them over a period of about a week. The wines were all from the bodega's LAUDUM range which, on their website consists of four reds and a white, but in practice has a rather wider scope. At the tasting they were showing Laudum Crianza (Monastrell/Cabernet-Sauvignon/Merlot - 16/20) and Laudum Nature (Monastrell/Cabernet-Sauvignon/Tempranillo - 15/20) which both had a pleasant enough style, although I felt at the time that the ex-cellars price of the Crianza would have made it too expensive on the UK market - approximately £7.99 retail then, now probably £8.49 thanks the strength of the euro and the gink with the eyebrows. There's a lot of competition in that sector of the retail market in the UK but, of course, ex-cellars prices are always negotiable.
The samples also included other wines from the range but no prices, so I can't comment on the value-for-money aspect. These were the best: Laudum Reserva 2001 (Monastrell/Cabernet-Sauvignon/Merlot - quite impressive maturity and a nice richness on the finish - 17/20); Laudum Garnacha Syrah 2006 (a very nice ripe, fresh fruit, delicious - 17/20); Laudum Monastrell Especial 2006 (big, blockbusting fruit, powerful, warm and long - 17/20); and Laudum Petit Verdot 2006 (this grape really has made itself at home in southern Spain: big fruit, warmth, power, structure and complexity on the finish - 17½/20).
These are very good wines and all too often people tend to look askance at wine produced by co-operatives, not just in Spain but everywhere in Europe. What these people need to accept is that, with 325 ha of vines (in this case), if the winemaker has a free hand in terms of grape selection, there's no reason at all why co-ops shouldn't produce high-quality, even great wines.


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