NB.: Any prices, vintage ratings and drinkability expressed are those current at the time this article was published, and may have changed in the meantime. This article is Copyright ©

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JR's notes:

This article formed part of a series for the Spanish Supplement in WINE magazine in October, 1998. See also THE GOOD, THE BAD AND LA MANCHA and BOOMING AMONGST THE BUBBLIES (Cava), both published at the same time. The WINE magazine website is at www.wilmington.co.uk

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PENEDÉS - RETURNING TO ITS ROOTS?

The Spanish wine region which arguably did the most to establish 'international' grape varieties in Spain is beginning to re-examine its native vines. John Radford reports.

Miguel Torres has a private vineyard at one of his wine estates where he lovingly tends some 120 varieties of grape whose names are unknown outside Catalunya, and probably outside Penedès. For years he has been trying them out in experimental blends, one with another and with better-known varieties but, so far, we have yet to see any commercial examples.

Torres it was, of course with Jean León (now controlled by the Torres company) and the other pioneers who brought Cabernet-Sauvignon, Chardonnay, et al to prominence in the DO Penedès and the DO Penedès to prominence in the world with the excellence of their wines, grown in the microclimates of the highlands of the region, at 500 to 800 metres altitude. In the cascade towards Cabernet most of the region's other major varieties seemed to get swept aside. Tempranillo was still strong, of course, and the Macabeo for basic, everyday dry whites, but what of the Monastrell (the French Mourvèdre), Garnacha, Cariñena, and the native Parellada and Xarel.lo varieties. These last, of course, are grown widely for Cava but in the Chardonnay stampede they, too got pushed aside. Until relatively recently, that is.

It's become one of the clichés of the wine world that there are no bad grapes, only inappropriate winemaking. This is a massive oversimplification, of course, and yet work done with the humble Monastrell in even humbler Murcia has stripped away years of prejudice; the Garnacha in neighbouring Priorato has shown itself to be the equal of any red grape for the very finest wines; new techniques with the Xarel.lo in Cava-country have rediscovered its natural strength and vigour whilst eliminating its oxidative tendencies and, of course, as everywhere in Spain, old technology reinvented has provided some very pleasant surprises.

White wines have taken an early lead: one of the best examples is provided by the firm of Albet i Noya in Subirats, who produce a range of varietal wines under the Col.leció label. As well as one of the best Tempranillos in the business and an excellent Chardonnay, they offer a Macabeo and a Xarel.lo each with five months in oak and an amazing 80/20 Xarel.lo/Pinot Noir mix called Xarel.lo d'Anyada. Cavas Hill in Moja produce a spectacular Blanc Bruc, simply made from a 60/40 mix of Macabeo and Xarel.lo: this is a style made all over the region for everyday whites, but Hill show what it really can achieve, and Jane Ventura in El Vendrell do the same for 50/50 Xarel.lo and Parellada. Marqués de Monistrol is still raising eyebrows with its old-established 'blanc en noirs' (i.e. white wine made in the style of red wine - with skin contact) made from 80/20 Xarel.lo/Parellada.

In the matter of red wine, however, Cabernet-Sauvignon is still king. We are starting to see a little more Garnacha and Cariñena in amongst the Tempranillo, some Merlot/Garnacha blends amongst the Cabernet/Tempranillo, and, of course, Torres' Sangredetoro (Garnacha/Cariñena) soldiers on for ever. The change here is not so much in the winery as in the market-place. Whilst Penedès red is still doing excellent business in export markets, at home it's having some trouble making headway. There was always strong competition from Rioja, of course, whose early hold on the national market provided it with an impressive distribution network and massive inroads into Catalan catering, but now there are new competitors and your Barcelona restaurant wine-list is as likely to feature half a dozen quality reds from bodegas in Ribera del Duero as well as - a lot closer to home - some of the new-wave Cabernet/Merlot/Syrah/Tempranillo/Garnacha wines from Priorato, and some prett y impressive Cabernet/Tempranillo/Garnacha work from the almost-unknown region of Tarragona, which is only next-door.

It seems unlikely at this stage that anything will ever seriously challenge the might of the Cabernet on the dining-tables of Catalunya... But then, that's what they said about Rioja before Miguel Torres revealed Mas la Plana (as Gran Coronas 'Black Label') to an astonished world.

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